Walked along the pontoon this morning and counted — a good third of the berths in Port de Pollença are empty now. Some hauled out, some sailed south for the winter, a few back to the mainland. The charter fleets have mostly gone quiet. Even the restaurants along the front have started putting out the off-season menus.
I know a lot of people love the buzz of July and August but this is my favourite time of year here. You can actually get a table at Stay for dinner without booking three days ahead. The water in the bay is still warm enough for a swim if you are brave. And the light at this time of year is extraordinary — low and golden by four in the afternoon.
Anyone else feeling that particular contentment that comes when the season winds down? Or am I just a grumpy liveaboard who does not like sharing the harbour?
You are not grumpy, James. You are Mallorcan at heart.
This is when the island belongs to the people who actually live here. I took the Bavaria out on Sunday — motored out of Palma, killed the engine at Illetes, and sailed west along the coast for two hours without seeing another yacht. In August that same stretch is like a motorway.
The fishing is better now too. My neighbour brought me some llampuga yesterday, straight off the boat at the Llotja. You only get that in October.
I have only been here since the summer so this is my first autumn in Mallorca and I am starting to understand why everyone says October is the best month. Even Santa Ponça feels different — the beach bars have gone quiet, you can park near the port again, and the kids can actually ride their bikes without dodging rental cars.
I have not been up to Pollença yet but it is on our list. James, is there a good anchorage in the bay for a beginner to visit eventually or is it all moorings?